In order to mow quickly, comfortably, ergonomically, persistently and joyfuly, you need to have first-class equipment. We divide this into equipment for mowing itself, equipment for peening and equipment for repairs and other maintenance.
Mowing equipment
Snath - choose the size according to the description of the snath based on your grip height. In practice people do not like to change the settings of the snath handles. Therefore, it is practical for each mower to have their custom-set snath always ready.
Scythe (steel blade). You can choose according to the description of the goods or according to the video lesson, which is a free part of the Mowing for Life online course. You can also have the size recommended by our application.
Scythe ring with an Allen key (sleeve for attaching the scythe to the snath) - is included with the ergonomic snath from us. The ring for old snathsmowers (which is too small for the ergonomic snath) can be purchased here.
You can select the whetstone (sharpening / honing stone) in the Accessories section. You may want to own stones of different coarseness. At least one semi-coarse (eg sandstone). If you can produce a very fine peen the edge will last longer using a finer stone (Rozsutec or the finest blue shale). After a perfect peen, the finest whetstone is used. When it is no longer effective, switch to a coarser one. If the scythe does not mow well even after being honed with your coarsest honeng stone, it is time to peen again.
Stone holder (waterproof case for carrying a whetstone). When mowing, the stone must be kept in water so that it hones well and does not wear out. Never mow without a whetstone in a holder. Honing is performed reaularly (every one to five minutes or so), otherwise the scythe will not mow well.
Equipment for scythe peening
As you use the scythe and hone regularly, the edge angle gets bigger. Therefore, once in a while (after 3-6 hours of mowing) it is good to thin the blade edge by peening. Peened (cold forged) blade keeps its edge longer and mows better due to slight bent. This cannot be achived by grinding only. Peening also extends the blade life as material is not being removed.
Choose one of the three peening options:
1. Peening with the hammer flat on a narrow peening anvil
It requires practice and skill but offers the highest quality result. You will need:
Hammer with lentil shaped surface
Narrow peening anvil. The economical variant or new Vianatura anvil are suitable for mounting in a peening bench (peening horse, trestle). Austrian anvil - suitable for attaching to a wooden log.
Abrasive rubber block (optional, but recommended) - removes dirt and corrosion from the scythe, hammer and the anvil. The hammer blows are then much more visible.
Peening horse (optional - you can also use a log, but it is not as convenient)
2. Peening using the peening jig
Everyone can do this without long training, but the blade is not as sharp and durable as when the scythe is peened perfectly on the anvil.
An ordinary hammer weighing approximately 600g (do not hit the jig cap too hard or it may crack)
Coarse stone to be used for one grinding pass immediately after peening on the jig. Do not use this stone during mowing - it removes too much material.
Log or optionally the peening horse (peening bench/trestle)
Optional abbrasive rubber block - not as important as when using the peening hammer, but definitely practical for safe cleaning of your blade from corrosion and dirt before peening.
3. Peening using the hammer nose on a wide anvil
This used to be the most common traditional peening method in Central and Eastern Europe. It requires practice and skill similar to peening on a nerrow anvil. The peen is, however, not as even. If you are used to peening this way and do not want to re-learn, you will be happy to own:
The dual-nose peening hammer (with two narrow noses of different radii)
Optionally peening bench
Abrasive rubber block (optional, but recommended)
Equipment for repairs, new scythe preparation and other maintenance
Flat file for various blade repairs
Round file for grinding cracks and grinding concave blades
Slow-running water-cooled grinder for pre-grinding thick scythe blades
Steel brush for removing paint and corrosion (by hand, or on a drill or angle grinder)
Clamps for attaching the scythe to a bench
Vise for securing a scythe by its rib
Awl (or nail) for removing dirt from scythe ring allen screws
10 mm wrench for fastening the scythe handles