Peening jig

We tested several different types of peening jigs and this one has won. It just works.

With a narrow anvil and peening hammer, one has more peening flexibility and it is possible to produce finer edges. It requires more practice and skill though. Anyone can learn to use this jig almost instantly and your scythe or sickle will be ready to mow in a few minutes. Depending on your land and grass condition, it is recommended to peen your scythe every 3 to 5 hours of mowing.

How to use:

Attach the peening jig body to a bench or wood chock. Pre-drill the hole to prevent wood cracking and to fit it tightly at the same time. Never use metal material to drive the jig body into the chock or bench. Use a wooden mallet or a hammer with a piece of wood to protect the metal.

1. To "pull" the edge, use the cap with one stripe. Insert the scythe blade between the jig body and the cap so that the edge touches the central tenon. We peen from the heel side of the scythe by overlapping blows. With the right amount of hand pressure and hammer blow, the scythe moves along the edge almost automatically (please do not use the polished scythe peening hammer with this jig. Use a regular hammer instead. The ideal hammer weight to use is 600 g). The scythe should rest on the knees with the same side up as while mowing - with the tang and tang knob pointing upwards.

2. Change the caps. Use a double striped cap and repeat the process. If the scythe edge is still sufficiently thin, you don't have to use the first cap every peening.

After the second pass, use the carborundum coarse stone to finish the edge: use the rounded stone edge and the scythe rib as your guide to gently sharpen the edge.

Once finished, you should be able to use finer stones (e.g. Rozsutec) while mowing. The blue shale stone is too fine and will not work with the peening jig.

Weight: 890 g.

Cap length: 5.3 cm.

Total jig length: 11.5 cm.